March 24, 2021 - Driving the Natchez Trace

Back in early December, when we were returning from "The Road to Tucson" trip, we had intended to drive the Natchez Trace Parkway, which is listed as one of the top drives in the United States.  But it was raining then so we bypassed the Natchez Trace.  But today the weather was good, it was early spring, and we were in Natchez, which was and is the southern terminus of the historic Natchez Trace, with the northern terminus being Nashville, Tennessee.

So it was a go!

Below is how most of the Parkway looked.  Grass and then trees on each side.  Surprisingly there was very little color.

 

   
My Mom, who is a big DAR member, would have liked this.
   

The road is maintained by the National Park Service and has been designated an All-American Road. Commercial traffic is prohibited along the entire route, and the speed limit is 50 miles per hour.

We are on the Natchez Trace!

   
Just northeast of Natchez is all that remains of the Elizabeth Female Academy which operated from 1818 to 1845.  It was the first degree-granting institution for women in Mississippi and one of the first women's college in the U.S.   Varina Howell, who married the future president of the Confederacy, Jefferson Davis, was a graduate.
   

After unloading their cargoes in Natchez or New Orleans, many pilots and crew of flatboats and keelboats traveled by the Trace overland to their homes in the Ohio River Valley. (Given the strong current of the Mississippi River, it was not until steam-powered vessels were developed in the 1820s that travel northward on the river could be accomplished by large boats.)

Now you could make it easily in your car in one day.  It took weeks, back in the day.

   


Native Americans, following the "traces" of bison and other game, improved this walking trail -- althought it was never a single path -- for foot-borne commerce between major villages located in central Mississippi and middle Tennessee. The route is locally circuitous; however, by traversing this route the bison, and later humans, avoided the endless, energy-taxing climbing and descending of the many hills along the way. Also avoided was the danger to a herd (or groups of human travelers) of being caught en-masse at the bottom of a hollow or valley if attacked by predators. The nature of the route, to this day, affords good all-around visibility for those who travel it. At all times the road is on the high ground of the ridge dividing the watersheds and provides a view to either see or catch the scent of danger, from a distance great enough to afford the time to flee to safety, if necessary.  By the time of European exploration and settlement, the route had become well known and established as the fastest means of communication between the Cumberland Plateau, the Mississippi River, and the Gulf of Mexico settlements of Pensacola, Mobile, and New Orleans.

   
A good look at the old trail.
   
We stopped at Emerald Mound which is America's second-largest Mississippian structure, superseded only by Monk's Mound at Cahokia.
   
 
   
Emerald Mound is 35 feet high.  It took a lot of baskets of dirt to make this mound!
   
Looking down from the top of the Mound.
   
Looking down at the parking lot.  Our black Altima is on the left there.
   
Another look at the Mound.
   
The Mount Locust Inn.  Of the 50 or so roadside hostelries established before 1820 along the Trace, this is the only one that remains.  It has been restored to its form as a plantation home of the 1820s, which was the peak era of the Trace's foot and horse travel.  Food and accommodations cost about 25 cents per night.  And I bet the travelers were happy to pay it in return for a hot meal and dry lodging after sleeping out in the open on the trail.
   
A view of the area surrounding the Mount Locust Inn.
   
We stopped at the Sunken Trace and hiked it a short distance.
   
Looks like a good spot for an ambush to me.
   
Just south of Tupelo, Mississippi -- the halfway point of the Natchez Trace and where we ended up spending the night -- was this informative sign regarding Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto who came through this area back in 1540.
 
I must say, we were a little disappointed with the Natchez Trace.  It was supposed to be one of the top scenic drives in America, yet frankly, it wasn't all that pretty.  Yes, there was no civilization along the road, just grass and trees, which was nice.  But we expected to see some color along the side of the road:  azaleas, wildflowers, or something.  But it was mostly just green.  It got old after awhile.   I'm glad we drove and saw it, I'm glad they preserved the Old Trace and made a parkway out of it, but I probably don't need to drive it again.  We decided not to drive the second half the next day; instead we headed for Chattanooga, Tennessee.  Maybe someday we will drive the northern half to Nashville.
   
 
   
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